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If you think there's only one Tony's in town, think again. This Tony's — Tony's Mexican Restaurant & Cantina (2222 Ella Blvd., 713-862-6516) — is a delightfully old-fashioned place that specializes in enchiladas. And there are none finer than the enchiladas de marisco ($10.95), a delicious combination of sautéed shrimp and crabmeat wrapped in flour tortillas, smothered in enchilada sauce and topped with white cheese. The dish is served with charro beans and seasoned white rice dotted with corn, peas and carrots.

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