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So the odds of my trying a restaurant named "Tofu Village" would have been close to nil had I not heard a breathless report about the place from an acquaintance with a yen for great Asian food. I was further encouraged by the small legend above the door of the place that says "Korean barbecue." Who would think of going to a restaurant called Tofu Village for the barbecue?

Tofu Village is a long way from a vegetarian restaurant. At first, I thought there weren't any tofu dishes for vegetarians at all. But closer study revealed that there was one vegetarian soft tofu soup made with carrots, broccoli, mushrooms and pumpkin for our meat-challenged friends.

The Korean approach to tofu that I discovered here is nothing short of astonishing. Like the soft and comforting potatoes in the middle of a bowl of fiery curry, or the neutral tortilla that holds the picante taco meat, the fresh tofu at Tofu Village is a deliciously bland counterpoint to a host of enticing hot and spicy flavors.

The fact that there are so few tofu dishes made without meat makes this tofu restaurant a poor choice for vegetarian diners. But it's a great place for everybody else. And I especially recommend Tofu Village to misguided tofu mockers who never considered eating the stuff before. Give it a try, and this place will truly change your mind about "toad food."

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