Most Popular

Most Viewed
Most Commented
Restaurants
"Most Popular" tools sponsored by:
Recent Articles

Recent Articles By Robb Walsh

National Features

  • SF Weekly
    The Candidate

    Our columnist knows Ralph Nader's running mate all too well.

    By Matt Smith
  • The Pitch
    How Not To Be a Rap Star

    First of all, lay off the Ecstasy.

    By Nadia Pflaum
  • Village Voice
    Project Runaway

    What becomes a gossip columnist most?

    By Michael Musto

The hamburger poor boy is made from a half-pound frozen oval patty of ground meat. It's cooked on the griddle and sprinkled generously with an orange powder from a shaker bottle. Five bucks says its Tony Chachere's Creole Seasoning.

When it's done, the burger patty is cut in two, and the halves are set side by side on a poor boy roll with grilled onions and lettuce, tomato, mayo and pickles. I got the cheeseburger poor boy with Swiss, and I was pretty happy with it. If they used a hand-formed, never-frozen patty, it would have been stellar.

The Creole-sausage poor boy was disappointing. There wasn't enough meat for the size of the roll, and the sausage, which was split in half lengthwise, was all dried out. I suspect it had been microwaved. The muffuletta was similarly out of whack. There was a generous amount of meat and cheese on the mediocre round bun, but not nearly enough olive salad to moisten it. The red beans and rice were nothing special either.

But don't miss the sublimely spiced New Orleans-style gumbo, which contains a "kitchen sink" mixture of sausage, chicken and jumbo shrimp in a dark roux. Bottles of filé powder are lined up beside the pepper sauces for doctoring your gumbo at the table.

How long Café Orleans Express can keep up the quality of their outrageous gumbo and overstuffed shrimp and oyster poor boys is anybody's guess. Which is why I recommend you stop by sooner rather than later.

Write Your Comment show comments (7)
  1. The review didn't mention the quality of the bread on the po-boys, an issue for me. I'm happy to have found the bread is superior to the Wonder bread like sandwich rolls used on most po-boys in the Houston area. A little chewy, not quite as crusty as I'd like, but okay. It took 15 mins to get my cheeseburger po-boy. Not having had one since Original New Orleans Po-Boy closed and Jazzie went downhill, I forgot that with a properly dressed N'awlins Hamburger Po-Boy, cheese is superfluous. Next time I'll omit it and ask them to leave off the onions too (there were too many). I didn't try any fried foods other than the fries, which were a little chewy, but everything I saw looked pretty dark, i.e., overcooked.

    I hope they make it and as a chain I'd like to have one in my neighborhood as opposed to another Starbuicks Burnt Tire Beverage Co. or Universe of Wings, etc. Maybe they'll be so successful they can concoct their own seasoning mix and tone it down a little bit and convince Sysco to provide them with a frozen po-boy shaped hamburger patty.

  2. This restaurant took the place of a philly cheesteak place that weren't there for long. This is b/c any sandwich place in the vicinity has to compete with the much beloved Sam's Deli Diner. Maybe that's why there is so much fries served at cafe orleans; they know they've got competition on the fry front.

  3. What's the thing to get at Sam's Deli Diner? Besides fries.

  4. Sam's Deli Diner is an institution in these parts. When I first moved to this neighborhood a few years ago, there was some discussion of it moving to the south side of I-10 due to the construction. When I asked what is so special about Sam's, I got the same look that those folks in Austin gave me back in 1980 when I asked who Earl Campbell was. In my one visit to Sam's, I had a pretty darn good burger and fries. They have boudain and lots of fry fast foods. But for my mind, the name is a misnomer. There's not a slice of deli meat in the place. We tried Orlean's Cafe and loved the oyster/shrimp poor boy. I'm disappointed you think the red beans are nothing special, the plates I saw looked so tasty, I was figuring on a return visit to try them.

  5. Sam's Deli Diner is an institution in these parts. When I first moved to this neighborhood a few years ago, there was some discussion of it moving to the south side of I-10 due to the construction. When I asked what is so special about Sam's, I got the same look that those folks in Austin gave me back in 1980 when I asked who Earl Campbell was. In my one visit to Sam's, I had a pretty darn good burger and fries. They have boudain and lots of fry fast foods. But for my mind, the name is a misnomer. There's not a slice of deli meat in the place. We tried Orlean's Cafe and loved the oyster/shrimp poor boy. I'm disappointed you think the red beans are nothing special, the plates I saw looked so tasty, I was figuring on a return visit to try them.

  6. Oh sorry Senor Walsh for the late reply. Honestly there's no one thing. The food's cheap, hot, brown, and there's a lot of it. It's quirky. The morning hash browns are chopped up french fries. Sometimes your burger and fries arrive on the same plate, sometimes they will be on seperate plates. Sometimes they see fit to cut your sandwich in half. Sometimes there's an enigmatic fork stuck in it. You just never know.

    One good thing is you can have your sammy any way you like. You can pick a bun, white, wheat or rye toasted or untoasted. Then you can pick regular or spicy fries or onion rings.

    I personally like the fried fish sandwich b/c it's always hot and crispy straight out of the fryer. I always get either that or the grilled chicken with mustard on rye toast. The fried chicken sandwich is disappointing. Most people get burgers.

  7. My wife and I just tried Cafe Orleans Express today (12/12/07) I had the shrimp Po-boy - dressed and my wife had the whole fried catfish , along with the Gumbo. I must say this is a great place -- good food. Get there early for lunch as the place fills up pretty quickly. I hope the will be successful at making this a chain.

Houston Press Insiders

  • Local food, music and news blasts
  • Free Stuff
Menu of Menus
High School Photo Contest